Home Again!

After a 9 hour flight (45 minutes spent on the ground in Ottawa), a bus ride to Union Station and a 2 1/2 train trip, I got back to Kingston at 1 a.m. this morning (6 a.m. in Britain so 24 hours awake!). I can't believe it's all over! It was an amazing experience and one that will stay with me for the rest of my life (along with the 2700 photos I took!). We managed to see and do so much and, as ambitious as it looked, my itinerary worked!! We drove 4045 miles and covered more ground by foot, sea and train! It's an amazing country and we could have spent 5 more weeks exploring all the little corners we didn't have time to see. We took one or two things off the itinerary to make room for other things we discovered or to spend more time enjoying the place where we were. The days at the Rural Retreats when we just wandered were a wonderful respite from driving and the "tourist" scene. (Still in denial of the fact that we too were tourists!) We decided not to go to Nottingham. Mom and Dad had been there and I wanted to spend more time in Carlton (where my grandmother was born). We watched a TV show the other night about the 20 worst and best places to live in Britain and Nottingham made #4 on the worst list so maybe that wasn't such a bad decision! I know I will return someday and I have seen the places and sites that were high on my list of priorities.
I'm wondering how many of you will continue to check in and follow my progress with laundry, dishes and the day to day routines of reality! I have enjoyed sharing my thoughts and impressions of Britain and Ireland with you all. Words can't capture all we've seen and done but I've done my best! Now I start planning the European Expedition! Stay tuned!

King Arthur Country

I've had some comments from family members about all the castle pictures we've been sending so here's a change of pace! Today was spent following the King Arthur legend! It has always fascinated me and there are sites all over Britain that claim a connection to him. Unfortunately, we couldn't see them all! That will be the next trip!

We started our day with a visit to Tintagel - the supposed birthplace of Arthur (although the castle on the site post dates his birth). It wasn't too hard to imagine this being true as we walked down a very steep hill to reach the base of another very steep hill!! The castle sits perched on the cliffs on the coast of Cornwall with waves crashing on the rocks belong. We were there early enough that we were the only people and didn't have "tourists" sucking up the mystery and mysticism in the air!

We had a lovely visit with Dad's cousin Paul and Hilary. They live in a great old schoolhouse with a spectacular view of Somerset fields and valleys! Too have that out your window every day...!! We have been seeing Britain through a tourist's eyes (although I really hate to admit that I have been a tourist!!) and Paul and Hillary provided us with a different perspective and more insight as to why people would leave this beautiful country. Social conditions aren't good in many areas and people are disillusioned and discontent. Owning a home is virtually unattainable for so many and housing costs in those regions we have loved so much are soaring. Those lovely little cottages are out of reach for the average person as they are snapped up by the wealthy and the tourist agencies. I had a few moments of guilt for being a part of this cycle.

We would have loved to stay longer but time was ticking and we had more we wanted to do before the day ended. On to Glastonbury and more mystic vibes! The town is a quirky combination of New Age and history! You can walk by buildings from the 17th century and find a shop offering tours of Avalon or psychic readings! We spent some time at Glastonbury Abbey and found these two sites in the photos. We had toured several abbeys and priories already so while the architecture was amazing (as was the light and shadow on the ruins!), it was this connection to Arthur that hooked me! And, after visiting so many of the castles that King Edward was instrumental in building, his connection in this story felt like "a friend of a friend"!

Avebury was our final destination for the day. We arrived just before dusk so the sky had that lovely soft glow. The "tourists" had gone home and we were alone to meet the stones. Perhaps that is why this visit was far more powerful for me than Stonehenge. We walked down a path that wound through the woods and into the village and there they were, sitting as they have for thousands and thousands of years (2500 BC!). Homes sit on the edge of the site but it seems very natural and makes more sense than glitzy visitors' centres. Can you imagine looking out everyday and seeing these ancient monuments?! It's almost overwhelming to be standing in prehistoric sites like this. You can't help but feel extremely insignificant! These stones have survived for centuries and continue to be magnificent. This and the fact that it was our last evening in Britain made it a very awe-inspiring and moving experience. This was the Britain I have grown to love!

Star Castle!

This is a shot of my guard room at Star Castle! It really was a guard room! I had to walk outside the castle to this little building along the wall with a fabulous view of the harbour! You can just see some little "look out" windows along the wall and there were two larger windows looking out at the castle and grounds. Very cute and cozy especially when it rained during the night. A far cry, I'm sure from "guard days"!

Isles of Scilly!

This is our ferry and our view from our B&B here on St. Mary's (tide's out)! A lovely region that is almost tropical with mild climate and palm trees, huge agave plants and yuccas and paperwhites and narcissi still blooming!
We took a boat tour yesterday to visit three of the other islands in the area and hiked 12 km.! While there are tourists galore (birdwatching is at its height this week so there were "twitches" of birdwatchers everywhere!), the islands have stayed relatively unspoiled. Everything shuts down on Sunday - no ferry, helicopter or plane service and shops are closed - and the character of the islands is maintained with quaint little B&Bs and shops.
We spent last night at Star Castle - what an experience!! Built in 1593, it has been part of several wars and a haven for several members of royalty - most notably Charles II (his portrait hangs in the front entranceway). We had a wonderfully elegant dinner in the dining room last night with its thick stone walls and heavy brocaded drapes over the windows. The dark beams on the ceiling were warmed by the fire in the fireplace - a real treat since the weather started to change at the end of our boat tour and we were a bit chilled!
I slept in my guard room and had 5 little "arrow loops" as windows overlooking the harbour! Cross beams on the ceiling and an old lamp gave it the flavour of the period but the thick white duvet made it a cozy place to snuggle during the wind and rain of the night!! If there's one thing I've grown to love here, it's duvets!
It's pouring rain today so we are snuggled in the lounge at the castle writing post cards and catching up on email (doesn't seem right in a 16th century castle!! Our last computer experience ended in all of the Derbyshire system crashing so the blog only got partially updated!!
The ferry leaves at 4:30 (2 hours) then we have a bit of a drive to our hotel in Newquay. We hope to get to Tintagel, Glastonbury and Avebury tomorrow as well as meeting Dad's cousin Paul for lunch!! Big plans right up until the end!!
Our flight for Canada leaves at 2:30 on Thursday so I would imagine my next entry will be from Canada on Friday morning...or whenever I surface from my bed!! It's been the trip of a lifetime and I have loved every minute of it!!

Hope Cove, Devon and Land's End, Cornwall

This is the loveliest section of the country! We stayed in a thatched cottage similar to these only more secluded and walked along this coast and down to the beach. It was glorious weather - Tshirts - and we stopped for Devon Cream tea at a thatched cottage and enjoyed ice cream as we strolled the beach. Hiked 10.5 km one day and loved every kilometre! The views are incredible so even climbing hills has a reward!
Land's End sounds horribly romantic but turned out to be very commercialized! For several pounds, you can have a sign made up of your own community and pose for a postcard!!! Didn't fall for that one!! We walked a bit farther along the coast and finally found TRUE Land's End - rugged coastlines, expanses of ocean and crashing waves!! There's something about the ocean that calms me - even when it's not so calm!

The Peak District

Spent a day in Lincoln and wandering through the cathedral. Magnificent! The carving and detail in the woodwork and stonework is mind-boggling - especially at a time when tools were so basic!
We have been deep in the heart of England for several days now and not even thinking computers...much!! We had 4 fabulous nights in Yorkshire and are now in the Peak District for a couple of days. Our Rural Retreats cottages have been wonderful - and very rural. The definition of rural here is narrow (not much wider than my driveway!), winding roads that aren't on any map! Great places for hiking and enjoying peace and quiet! We had planned on going into Nottingham today but, since Mom and Dad have already been there and there wasn't anything that I HAD to see or do there, we decided to spend today walking! We've already hiked a couple of kilometres this morning and will head out on some of the many trails in the area this afternoon. So nice to be out in the fields with the sheep and the cows and seeing pheasants and grouse etc. all around!
This is Glamis (pronounced "glahms") Castle. We stopped in here on our way from Aberdeen to Edinburgh. It was the childhood home of the Queen Mother and birthplace of Princess Margaret. Interesting to see and lots of lovely ghosts that still inhabit the place!

Goathland (Aidensfield!)

Took a drive up to Pickering to take a ride on a North York Moors steam train (Dad's birthday present)! I was a bit disappointed to see this engine come down the track but the coach cars were great - little private compartments just like in Murder on the Orient Express or Harry Potter! Lovely scenery and our trip ended in Goathland - the setting for Heartbeat (any of you TVO fans!) and was also the setting for Hogsmeade Station in the first Harry Potter movie! Quite amazing being in these places I've seen on TV or in movies or just read about. Too bad about all the tourists!! We did visit the Aidensfield Arms and see Scripps' Garage. There are sheep wandering the green spaces - totally disinterested in the tourists!
Our ride back was on a "Harry Potter" type steam engine so I was happy! It was a 1920's train and Dad even got to go up into the engine when we got back to Pickering (although the young engineer DID invite me first!!). Quite an adventure and lots of great photos in Goathland and enroute!

Hadrian's Wall

This first photo is the warning seen on Holy Island. It has a causeway which is affected by tides. One only visits the island on low tide! Fortunately it worked for us to visit AND get off before this happened to us!!
Our next item on the agenda was to see some part of Hadrian's Wall!! We had left Edinburgh in the morning (after walking the Royal Mile) and after spending time on Holy Island knew we'd miss any of the interpretive centres for the Wall. So...it was up to us!! We did see bits and pieces as we drove but, as we have discovered here, pulling over is not quite as easy as it is in Canada. But, just as we decided to forget it and head for our cottage for the night, we came upon a sign AND a place to park!! There was a tower and a section of the wall in a farmer's field along the roadway! Over a stile and along a path with a flock of sheep watching and we were in 200 AD.!! Quite amazing and, in my opinion, much better than with glitzy displays and signs! The sun was just setting and it was a lovely, tranquil moment!

Holy Island, Lindinsfarne Castle

Royal Yacht Britannia

Quite an amazing "boat"! We arrived in Edinburgh in time to do a tour and, with our ferry ride to Ireland still fresh in our minds, decided that this might be the way to travel in the future! Quite elegant and spacious! The dining room and living room could have come out of any country home complete with the chintz, flowers and fine china!
There were many photos of the royals on trips over the years and they became a bit more human to me as I imagined the kids running along the decks and the Queen in her sitting room with a good book?!
They had that famous photo of Diana being reunited with a much younger William and Harry on the deck and it looked like a much happier time for her. The woman at the fudge shop on board told us that Diana used to pick up fudge for the boys on a regular basis.

Dunnottar Castle

Today will definitely be one of the highlights of this trip! I had been looking forward to seeing this castle and wasn't disappointed. Where Harlech was a bit disappointing with the parking lot directly in front of it, this required a 1 km walk down a gravel lane then down 206 steps and up 39 to reach the castle! And it was worth the trip! The views were breathtaking and the castle itself had so much history attached to it - the keep was 14th century and other buildings were 15th and 16th century. It was attacked by Cromwell and William Wallace, visited by Mary Queen of Scots and Charles II, a prison to 167 men and women who refused to acknowledge the Episcopalian style of church Charles II had imposed on Scotland... While the castle is in ruins, there are still many original features remaining - great fireplaces, bake ovens, chapel windows and a dry sink in the kitchen! And there weren't the crowds of people that have been at the more easily accessible castles. I was able to wander and spend time just soaking up the scenery and history all by myself. I could have stayed there all day!!
We went into Aberdeen for the afternoon and toured Old Aberdeen. Very different buildings made of granite blocks (beautiful flecks sparkle in the sunlight) with intricate Gothic spires! Did some shopping and I got 2 more 2 GB cards for my camera (2 already filled!). I will have lots to keep me busy over the winter sorting through all the photos and deciding which ones are worth keeping, printing etc.!
We head to Edinburgh tomorrow via St. Andrew's and Kirkcaldy (birthplace of my Aunt Ella). We hope to see the Royal yacht Britania on our way into the city and arrive early enough to wander the Royal Mile. Our hotel is right in the heart of the city so a great base for sightseeing!

Aberdeen

A day to sleep in, have a leisurely morning and regroup for the final 2 weeks of this excursion! The whole crew headed off to Crathes Castle just before noon today. It's a 16th century castle gifted to the original family by Robert of Bruce. Supposedly the best example of Scottish baronial architecture?! Quite well restored inside with artifacts etc. from the 15th-18th centuries. Amazing topiaries and garden walks - even this late in the season. The leaves are turning colour and it was a wonderful Indian summer day (not sure what it's called in Scotland!). The sweaters I bought in Wales have been put away for awhile and it's back to a light jacket!
We had a picnic lunch on the castle grounds - can you imagine? To be having a picnic in Scotland at a castle!!
We went down the road 5 miles to Drum Castle. Totally different in appearance (I preferred this one). It has a 13th century Norman keep with a restored Jacobean mansion house and gardens. Quite impressive!
We are going out to dinner tonight to celebrate Rachel and Mom's birthdays and tomorrow will head down the coast to Dunnotar Castle. It was apparently the setting of Hamlet (the Mel Gibson version) and is one of those incredibly imposing castles high on a cliffside! I have enjoyed the restored castles but still love the ruins!

Scotland

We have arrived safe and sound in Scotland! I am going to be hard pressed to decide which area is my favourite! I was sad to leave Wales but quickly grew to love the new scenery. We drove through the Lake District. I am a bit disappointed in what is happening to these beautiful spots because of tourism. The coach buses and people everywhere make it hard to see the landscape! Windemere on a Saturday was wall to wall people! I was glad to leave and just be on the winding roads (with Dad driving!) Scotland too has spectacular views. Our first stop was Gretna Green - where young lovers in the late 1700's/early 1800's would run to elope at the local blacksmith's shop. I have read so many books from the period mentioning Gretna Green that it was exciting to actually see it. The blacksmith's shop is still there and people are still getting married there!! There were two weddings in the space of an hour that we were there and there are weddings all day at 30 min. intervals!! I guess it's the Vegas/Niagara Falls of Scotland! But, it was interesting to see the sight and read the history.
Glasgow didn't get much attention but I am finding that the cities don't appeal as much as being in the countryside. Our goal today was to get to Paisley, Scotland (at one time twinned with my hometown Paisley, Ontario). After a few wrong turns in "not so nice" Glasgow streets, we found it. This is the church we pulled up beside. While taking pictures, a woman heading in asked Dad if he wanted a tour so took us in. Built 1163, it is a bit older than our Paisley and a magnificent building! It was Harvest Sunday so there were displays of fruit and vegetables and flowers to add to the scene. A nice way to start a Sunday morning!
On to Stirling to see Stirling Castle. A later construction than the ones we've seen so far (1530) but impressive all the same.
We wanted to get some sense of the mountains and highlands so went north from Stirling to Braemar and did a quick pass of Balmoral Castle. Closed for the season to tourists so I only got a picture of the gates but the countryside alone was worth the trip! We were diverted onto an estate road when an enormous flock of sheep took over the main road! Only in Scotland!!
We arrived in Aberdeen just after 6 and had a wonderful home-cooked meal with Liz and David and Martin and Rachel. Lots to see and do in the area and so little time!

More Sheep!

This one thought I was his mother! I was taking pictures when it "baaed" at me. To be friendly, I "baaed" back and he came to investigate! I wasn't sure how safe I would be so got back in the car. Here's his little face peering up over the car window!

I LOVE sheep!!

I have sworn off eating lamb since my time here! They are so cute - and all over the place! We drove up to Horseshoe Pass (13 000 ft above sea level) and there were sheep on the hills and all along the side of the road! There were even a few cases where one would wander down the MIDDLE of the road! There was a spot to pull off and I got out for some close up shots! Very friendly animals!

Llangollen Canal

Boy Bev's fast!! We only took and sent this photo a couple of hours ago!! We took a horse-drawn barge ride down the canal this afternoon. A lovely ride as you can see by the bridge. Our horse looked a little bored but I guess when you do this day in and day out it can get a bit routine!! When we stopped to turn the ropes around for the return trip, the horse kept walking! He went a bit farther down the path, had a bite of grass then wandered back to be retied!

We have had a Welsh afternoon tea (much like all the rest except we had whipped cream with our scones instead of clotted cream) and are going back to the B&B to pick up the car and head out to Horseshoe Pass - a recommended scenic site and slate quarry. Mom's souvenir request is a piece of slate?! That should pack well and add to their already heavy suitcases!!

Sheep!!

One of the few spots where we could actually pull off the road to get a picture of the sheep. This is a very small flock compared to some we've seen. In many cases, the white of sheep covers the green of the grass and you can see them for miles! I just put my camera on the "action" setting and snap away!!

Back again!

We have been blissfully disconnected from all things technological for the past few days but continue to be busy. I can't believe we have only been gone just over a couple of weeks. We have seen and done so much it feels like I've been here forever! I have even had some trouble remembering what day it is and what country I'm in...poor me!!
Wales is absolutely spectacular! We drove up the coast on Wednesday stopping at Harlech then Caernarfon Castles. The Snowdonia Mountains are incredible and there are huge flocks of sheep on every bit of grass and hillside! We went from being in the bottom of a valley to the very top of a mountain peak - so glad Dad was driving 'cause I wouldn't have been able to keep my eyes on the road!
Drove to the Isle of Anglesey yesterday and toured Beaumaris Castle then on to Conwy and the castle there. Amazing to see and many photos for my grade 4 medieval unit! I'll try to get the hundreds of photos down to something a little more manageable for them to sit through!! It does give a whole new perspective to the unit and the time period! While we were at Beaumaris, a group of school children arrived. I had a moment of longing for the Perth Road kids - until I watched them racing along the wall walks and jumping off the crumbling remains of walls!! They did eventually settle and had an art activity - sketching parts of the ruins! Can you imagine?! A field trip to a castle!
From Conwy we drove into Llandudno (learning Welsh and the Ll is pronounced - Cl...I'm getting a few snickers when I try to say place names!). It's a seaside resort with huge old Victorian hotels along the boardwalk. Had a quick bite to eat then went to a concert by the Trelawnyd Male Voice Choir. Dad's only request for our trip was to hear a Welsh choir so I was busy back in March surfing trying to find a concert that would be in the vicinity of where we were staying when we were there!! I'm so glad I found this one!! They won the Eistenfodd this year. (Don't have the spelling right so I'll have to do my "spell check" later!) It's a choir competition held in Llangollen (where we are staying) every summer! The voices were amazing - 100 men (most over 70, I think!!) and there were a few tears shed by us throughout the concert! They could fill the church with their sound or bring it down to a whisper. The chills I felt then were awe rather than cold!
For the final number, the audience joined them in "Guide Me O, Thou Great Jehovah"!! It is one of my favourite hymns and I quite enjoyed singing along with those voices! I think this has been a highlight of Dad's trip. He bought two CDs and we listened to them on the way back to our B&B. It was 47 miles but took us 1.25 hours!! We are averaging between 27-35 miles an hour with the narrow and winding roads. But, I am still glad to see the area remaining in it's natural state and not bowing to the pressure to widen roads for buses and demanding tourists!!
I am now at the Llangollen Public Library. Another perfect spring day and we are spending it in the town. We hope to take a ride on the horse drawn barge down the canal and visit the aqueduct. Plas Newydd is also in the area and has an interesting history of two women who "eloped" from Ireland in 1780 and spent the next 50 years in the centre of local Regency Society.
Tomorrow we head off to Glasgow then Aberdeen for a few days with our friends from Kingston (Liz, David, Rachel and Martin). While people have been incredibly friendly, it will be nice to see some familiar faces again!

Pembrokeshire Coast Trail

Another view from the top! Not sure if you can see the parking lot in the distance but it gives you some idea of how far up we were! There were surfers in the bay but they weren't having much luck getting out into the surf much less doing any surfing!!

Back in Wales

This is one of the views from the hiking trail at Whitesands Bay - Pembrokeshire Coast National Park. Another blustery day - Dad thought perhaps 90 K winds?!! Fortunately they were blowing OFF the bay or we might not be here to explain the photos! One couple we met had been on the other side of the bay in the morning and had nearly blown off the cliff!! A breathtaking view and a great walk!

Harlech again!!

I guess Harlech made a real impression on Dad! Lots of photos. The Welsh flag was flying proudly - and you can't appreciate castle life until you tour one on a brisk fall day! We still haven't had a day "ruined" by rain but the winds have cooled considerably and being among these old ruins has been chilly business!

More Harlech

Another view of Harlech Castle. I remember singing Men of Harlech with the Paisley Centennial Choir back in 1974 - didn't see any Men of Harlech here though!

Harlech Castle!

The first of the "true" castles we've visited - 4 in two days! What has amazed me has been the size. I knew castles were big but until you are standing at the base of one, it really doesn't hit home!! Incredible too the detail and construction - again without the use of modern tools and engineering! At the base of the hill is Ysgol Castell (Castle School)! I watched the kids in their uniforms out playing and wondered if they realize how lucky they are to be in such a wonderful setting!

Cwm Bach, Dinas Cross, Wales

This is our lovely little cottage in Wales (just north of Fishguard)! It's the first of our Rural Retreat rentals. It is called Cwm Bach (Little Valley) and sits at the top of a hill. The French doors from the living room look out over the harbour and the hills and fields. Some gorgeous sunsets! Literally outside the front door ( to the side) are trails up into the hills with even more spectacular views! Inside, the floors are slate and the original beams and plaster walls have been preserved. Cozy bedrooms with thick duvets - very peaceful nights!!
AND, there is a goat who watches our approach from the hill along the very steep and rugged driveway!

Ferry to Wales!

This is the boarding of the ferry back to Wales. I was a little apprehensive since we still had overcast skies and rain off and on. But, the crossing was MUCH better than the first time!! Celine was still singing but it didn't seem quite so ominous!!

Fields of Ireland

I can't get over how green it is everywhere - and so many different shades and tones of green. Oh to be an artist and have the paints and easel set up. The other common sight is the stone - fences (in the fields and around homes), houses, walls etc. Mom had BIG plans for the garden fence in Paisley!

Dingle, Ireland!!

I left Dublin on much friendlier terms than when I arrived but it was love at first sight with Dingle - despite several hours of white knuckle driving!! I have adjusted to the right hand drive, the manual shifting and even the roundabouts but the narrow, winding roads are still terrifying!! It's beautiful countryside through quaint little villages but there are no shoulders and hedgerows (fushia in this area) grow right up to the edge of the road! The lanes are narrow and all is well until a car (OR TRANSPORT TRUCK!!!) approaches from the opposite direction. The choice then is to go right and brush the hedgerow or stay your course and chance being clipped by the oncoming vehicle! I took the hedgerow a few times yesterday - much to Mom and Dad's distress!! KEEP RIGHT! is the commonly used phrase on our driving days!! AND, the speed limit along these lovely little roads?!! 100 kph?!!!!
We had dinner at the pub which was followed by live entertainment - good Irish music! The stress of the driving melted away very quickly - good food and good music!
We had a full Irish breakfast this morning and headed out on the Slea Head Drive. We saw the beehive huts - dating back to 400 AD! Christian monks from Europe escaped here to preserve literacy and lived in similar huts around the area. Quite amazing!
Also amazing is how low-key tourism is at these sights. Small, often worn signs alert you to some significant site and a little, often rundown shack is set on the edge of the road to take a couple of Euro so you can walk through a farmer's field to see the sights - no grand markers, no glossy brochures and very few tourists!!!
At one point on our tour, some sheep entered the roadway and the farmer and his dog herded them down the road to a nearby field!
I have always heard that Ireland is green but you have to see it to truly believe it! So many shades of green and lush, lush landscape!! The colours and textures are truly amazing. I'm finding I need a thesaurus to get some different adjectives - spectacular, magnificent, awesome...have been used so often on this trip!
And the weather has been glorious! We had rain when we left Dublin yesterday and a brief shower when we arrived at Rock of Cashel. But it cleared and was beautiful, sunny and warm. Today has been sunny with a wonderful brisk wind. The clouds are low and often covering the mountains.
We drove on to Gallarus Oratory - a dry rubble masonary building about 1300 years old!!It was built by early Christians and was another example of lasting architecture without the use of machines etc.!
We have the afternoon to wander the shops of Dingle. The whole area reminds me of Cape Breton, Newfoundland and St. Pierre - the pastel or brightly coloured houses and shops, the craggy coast and the fields and hills. I will be truly sad to leave tomorrow - especially since it means another ferry trip!! Hopefully the winds will be with us this time!!

St. Stephen's Green

9 hectacres of treed and fenced green space in the middle of Dublin!! Flowerbeds and fountains and peace and quiet away from the hussle and bustle!

THIS is Dingle!

The "tree" musicians who entertained us at the pub last night!! We could still hear the music when we finally succumbed to exhaustion and returned to our room but it was a great way to fall asleep!

Rock of Cashel

The approach to this site is truly breathtaking! It stands high on a hill surrounded by lush, green countryside! The site is mostly ruins but they are in the process of restoring what they can. The chapel has some wall and ceiling paintings dating back to 1135!

Countryside as seen from the Rock of Cashel

Dublin!

Cead mile Failte! We survived the "Titanic" crossing but what an ordeal - and we had to pay for it!!! I was proud of myself though 'cause big, strong macho men were using numerous "sick" bags and I managed to keep my breakfast down!!! One of the stewards told us they cancel crossings when the waves are 3.5 m. high but they were "only" 3 m yesterday!!! We could hear pans and dishes crashing in the snack bar area every time we rose and fell on one of those waves! The songs (Theme from The Titanic and "I Will Go Down with this Ship") certainly provided some comic relief for the passengers!!
It's been quite the time for adventures the past couple of days. I drove for the first time when we left Heathrow. Right hand drive on the left side of the road in a manual transmission car with the stick shift on the left and trying to remember to use the clutch PLUS dealing with ROUNDABOUTS?!!!! Does anybody know what the purpose of those things are...except to stress out tourists?!!!
I did enjoy the M4 and got the hang of the driving - eventually found 3rd and 4th gear too!! Seemed to go straight from 2nd to 5th for much of the drive!! We also couldn't find reverse so had to rely on gravity to get turned around at one point!!
Our drive through Wales was lovely - looking forward to our 6 days there - and, despite some rain yesterday (our first since we arrived), Ireland is very pretty too. I wasn't terribly impressed with Dublin when we first arrived - NO STREET SIGNS?!!!! We drove around for an hour and a half looking for a sign so we'd know where we were ('cause the highways weren't marked on the city maps) to find our hotel!!! We did finally find some signs high on the second storey of buildings but many of them were worn and hard to read. A kind "local" got us on our way and we arrived safely - and exhausted!!
We are staying at The Harcourt Hotel - with a connection with George Bernard Shaw (don't have my "notes" with me but his portrait is in the lobby. The ceilings in our room are 14 feet tall with very ornate crown molding and a gorgeous crystal chandelier in a leaf motif medallion in the centre of the room! The DART tram goes by frequently and rings it's bell so that adds a bit to the charm! The hotel is on another great Georgian street and I have started my series of Georgian doors in Dublin!
The weather has been good today - a brief shower just now but it ended quickly and the sun is back out. We have been to St. Patrick's Cathedral and got fish and chips from Leo Burdock's to eat in front of Christchurch Cathedral. We've seen Dublin Castle and are headed down to Temple Bar and Trinity College then will do some shopping on Grafton Street!!
We head to Dingle tomorrow via Cashel and Tipperary. I have loved seeing London and Dublin but I really am a country girl at heart and am looking forward to green, open spaces!

Message from Kim via Bev

The phone rang bright and early this morning--around 7:10 Sault Ste. Marie time. I was surprised to hear Kim's voice on the other end and then a little concerned as I wondered what would prompt a call so early in the day. They were en route to Ireland via ferry and were in VERY rough seas--SO rough, in fact that they were ALL in need of Gravol but, unfortunately, were not permitted to return to their car to get to their supply. They were somewhat nervous as one of the songs that was playing on the loudspeaker was the theme from the movie "Titanic" ("My Heart Will Go On"). Later on, they heard "I Will Go Down with the Ship". I think Mom was starting to feel that the end was near as SHE began singing "Nearer My God to Thee"! Despite the concern over the rocking and rolling of the ferry and the VERY high waves, they all seemed to be in good humour. I had a message on my phone about an hour later saying that they had arrived safely and would attempt to find an internet cafe in the next few days to update us all with regards to their travels in Ireland.

The Globe

Our final pedometer count for yesterday was 12.44 km...and my legs and feet and back confirm it!! Thank goodness today is spent driving!!
The Globe was a real experience - certainly not Stratford!! We were "herded" into the yard and an actor came out to provide an opportunity for some heckling!! The play was much bawdier than I recall with lots of interludes (musical and comedic) for the peasants!! The open air was wonderful but I kept getting jolted back to the present when a plane flew overhead!! Characters came through the yard and several times walked right past us - that was cool!! One "woman" in period costume kept wandering by - and "she" winked at me?"!!!
A wonderful walk across the Millenium Bridge with lovely views of St. Pauls and the Thames. We all slept well!

In Search of the Hogwarts Express

Where in the WORLD is Auntie Kim? Our kids were THRILLED to get a photo from her at Platform 9 3/4 and, as devout Harry Potter fans, are EXTREMELY envious of her! They wonder when she will be having tea with J. K. Rowling!

NOTE FROM AUNTIE KIM!!!! There's lots to see and do...and buy...here that I have decided to look for some supply teaching work!! I heard there was a position at Hogwart's - librarian!! Didn't have much luck getting my trolley through though!!

Final Day in London!

Lots to get crossed of the list today and man, did we fly!! We've walked 8.6 km so far and still have another excursion before the day is done!!
We started our day "tubing it" up to Notting Hill Gate - didn't see Hugh Grant or Julia Roberts though!!! Walked up Portobello Road to the market and picked up some food for lunch and to eat on our trip to Wales tomorrow.
On to King's Cross and a highlight for me - Harry Potter's trolley at Platform 9 3/4!! Dad is trying to get a photo out but has been having some technical difficulties. It will probably be the only photo of me you see for this entire trip so it's a special one!! The movies had been filmed there but the trolley doesn't seem to be a huge tourist attraction...YET!!!
Back to the hotel for some lunch and to drop off our items before our "audience" at Buckingham Palace! When I woke up this morning, I couldn't figure out why my neck was so stiff. I figured it out when we entered the first room. I have spent the past 5 days looking up much of the time! The ceilings are pieces of art all on their own!! So ornate and spectacular!
Buckingham Palace is another piece of history with many antiques and original artworks. The silk wall coverings made me just want to reach out and touch...but not allowed!!! In the ballroom, the chandeliers were spectacular!! Each one had 9000 pieces of lead crystal and 120 lights! I'd love to attend a party there!!!
These tourist places all have audio tours now and the palace one was quite well done. As we were ready to climb the main staircase, the most majestic music began to play in my ears!!! Despite my casual dress, I felt quite regal as I ascended!!! The music certainly added to the experience!!
The tour ended in the gardens and the gift shop!!! A few £ dropped there!! We wandered the pathway back off the estate - stopping for some "Buckingham Palace Ice Cream" along the way?!! The Queen is certainly doing all she can to make money for the upkeep of the palace!
It was overcast and quite brisk today so ice cream wasn't really something we were in need of but it was an experience to sit on a bench on the Queen's estate and eat "her" ice cream!!!
Back to the hotel for a bit of a rest before we head out to The Globe! I got tickets for The Merchant of Venice and we will be standing in the yard - where the peasants would have been!! Apparently people come and go at will so I'm hoping it won't be a late night.
We head out tomorrow morning to Heathrow to pick up our rental car then on to Wales for the night. I may be doing my first driving in Britain tomorrow - send up some prayers!!!

Photo

Yesterday's photo was a little number we saw while wandering yesterday. A Lotus - I'm hoping our rental car will be like this...only red!! "Just" £459 000...!!!

Sunday

In a city full of awe inspiring cathedrals and abbeys, it seemed fitting to attend services today. We had planned to start at St. Paul's but the service was just ending when we arrived. It was for the best though as the organist began to "practice" (not that he sounded like he needed it!!). After the noise and chaos that seems to be London, it was calming and restful to sit in that magnificent building listening to the music fill the space. Much better than listening to someone talk to me for an hour!!
Feeling revived and ready to face another day, we headed to the Churchill Museum and War Cabinet Rooms. Again, the history in those four walls was incredible. They have recreated some rooms while others are just as they were during those crucial times of the war. We could listen to Churchill's speeches and follow his life.
Up to Hyde Park and Speakers' Corner - what a change of pace THAT was!!! Some very "eccentric" characters ranting about this and that! Some religious zealots, a couple of socialists and a Muslim all expounding on their topic of choice. One man wore a sign saying "Now is the time. Listen to me. I know everything!" Sounds like a few people I know!!! We had a picnic lunch in Hyde Park and, for the first time, I had to put on a jacket - windy with a brisk breeze. But we were in London - how could I complain!!
We had taken cabs to our first two stops this morning but were feeling a bit braver and decided to tackle the Tube. It really isn't hard - provided one knows where one wants to go, which line goes there and what transfers need to be made!! I still prefer the luxury (and surprising economy) of those lovely little black cabs!!
We did make it up to Speakers' Corner then back down to Westminster to see the Parliament Buildings and Big Ben (still silent unfortunately but impressive all the same). We attended evensong at Westminster Abbey. After all the weddings and funerals I have watched on TV from there, it was quite moving to actually be in the space. Whatever your beliefs, it is a magnificent place to worship or just sit and reflect or regroup. We sat right beside the choir and had a marvelous view of the choirboys - so angelic and their voices so clear and pure! We were facing the south and an enormous stained glass "rose"window! To our right was the ornate and very gilded high altar. But the highlight for me (and Mom and Dad too, I think) was singing the hymns. To have your voice join that of the choir and be accompanied by the thundering organ - all stops out sends chills up and down your spine!!! It brought tears to my eyes! AND, I think my voice has never sounded better!! Truly an experience of a lifetime!!
We are back at the hotel to regroup before dinner.
Tomorrow morning is Portobello Market then a tour of Buckingham Palace. I would like to go back to Westminster for a tour - so much to see that couldn't be done today (not open to "tourists" on Sunday). We have tickets in the yard for The Merchant of Venice at the Globe tomorrow night and so ends our time in London! It's been a whirlwind and I'm looking forward to the countryside and Wales on Tuesday!!

WAY back in time!!!

It's been another long (over 300 miles travelled) but fascinating day! We started our tour at Salisbury Cathedral (800 years old). As we walked up to the cathedral, we could hear singing! Lovely! The choir was practicing and somehow the music sounded even better inside such a magnificent structure!! We were given 30 minutes to "do" the cathedral (this is why I don't like tours!!!). I could have spent 30 minutes on one exterior wall alone!! It felt so wrong to rush through but there just wasn't time to see it all and I really wanted to get to the Chapter House to see an original of the Magna Carta (and to the shop to buy a copy for school!!!). I have enjoyed Edward Rutherford's book "Sarum" so this brought the book to life for me. We drove past Old Sarum on our way to Stonehenge and saw several burial mounds.

Stonehenge is also unfortunately for the tourists. PEOPLE everywhere along with cars, buses and traffic up and down the neighbouring roads. I was glad to hear that this will change in the future. I managed to get "a few" shots without people and found spots where I could let the enormity of this feat truly sink in. I hope I don't offend anyone but I just don't get this tremendous need people seem to have to get their photos taken in front of these monuments?! I like the purity!

The drive from Stonehenge to Bath was gorgeous! Winding roads up and down through green or golden hills and fields and through quaint little villages with stone houses with thatched roofs! Truly British countryside, in my mind!!

I had initially booked the tour for the first two stops and Bath was a bonus. I was surprised by Bath and captivated. When I was a teenager, my grandmother (and Aunt Kate?) introduced me to an author who set many of her stories in Georgian bath. It is a wonderful city. So much interesting architecture and history!! We toured the Roman Baths and drank....Roman bath water?!!! I actually thought it tasted better than my own tap water at home!!! We'll see what effects it has on me!! My feet don't hurt tonight so maybe that is one!

Photos!

Thanks to Bev (my sister) for getting some photos online for me! Dad took them on their phone (my international phone will take photos but won't send them anywhere?! Go figure!!! The first photo SHOULD be a view of "the street where we live" but I see we got the shot of my niece's favourite store instead!! Windsor Castle is the next one and the final shot of the library is from Leeds Castle - and how I plan to redecorate a room in my house when I get back!!! Over 3000 books there!!

On and On and On!!!

Today was Leeds Castle in Kent, the White Cliffs of Dover and Canterbury Cathedral. Those of you who know me can make your own predictions as to how many photos I took!!! Hint: It's more than yesterday...but I haven't done the math yet!!!
Walking up to Leeds Castle was like stepping straight into the picture I have had as part of my medieval unit for the past few years!!! It is even more beautiful "in person"!! There had been some clouds when we left London in the morning but it had cleared by the time we arrived and the castle was reflected in the "moat" at many angles and shining through the windows inside. It was a home up until 1974 so isn't decorated in a true medieval fashion so I spent most of my time outside or shooting the architecture inside. (Still the teacher!! I even picked up a few more books for my unit next year!!)
The fan belt on the bus broke so, rather than heading away and eating in Canterbury, we ate at Leeds while the bus got fixed. We had a lovely lunch under a HUGE catalpa tree in a courtyard.
The White Cliffs of Dover had more civilization around the spot where we stopped but they are impressive none the less! Mom sang the song while I took umpteen shots!! The Dover castle is also a sight to see!
Lovely countryside on the way to Canterbury. Even saw some oastler houses (hope that's the name - my notes are upstairs!!). I was not prepared for the enormity and elegance of Canterbury Cathedral. I'm sure I could have spent all day there and still not seen or photographed all the geometry or intricate designs that make up the cathedral. And to think it was built without cranes, power drills and the like! Truly a wonder!!
I am not a huge fan of tours - don't like to be told what to do and when - but I have enjoyed these past two days. It is a treat not to have to keep one's eyes on the road and be able to sit back and enjoy the countryside. And our guides have been very knowledgeable. A lot of history!
AND just driving through London....everyone is insane!! Motorcyclists come racing up BETWEEN lanes or move to the curb if it's going to slow. People race around corners and traffic circles and pedestrians walk wherever and whenever they want! We learned very quickly NOT to follow the crowds here!!
Tomorrow is Stonehenge, Bath and Salisbury! Any predictions as to the number of photos I take?!! I may need to buy another card for my camera!
Enjoy your weekends - I'll enjoy mine!!

Harrod's!

From pure opulence to pure decadence!! We had the bus drop us off at Harrod's. It was on the day 1 itinerary but "someone" (i.e. ME) planned WAY more than was possible!! This worked well. We entered the store past security guards who asked us to hold our daypacks by the strap rather than wear them over the shoulders. I wasn't about to say no - or question it!!! We'd had to go through security at Windsor Castle - bags through the xray and us through the scanner - so it's a big deal here. We've seen police carrying machine guns, there aren't garbage pails in Victoria Station (or others I imagine) because of the threat of bombs and a woman from Texas we met yesterday said she was reprimanded for taking a picture of the tracks at Vic Station?!
We entered the store to displays of Dolce and Gabbano, Dior, Louis Vitton, Guicci - I suddenly felt like a peasant!! It really is an experience to wander through the store - even if you can't afford anything! The food court itself has everything you could think of - and more!!! Scottish Marinated Beef fillet for 44 pounds - or, if you are a bit more "flush", you can get a kg. of smoked wild salmon for 105 pounds or Wagyn sirloin for 126 pounds!!!! Double that and add a wee bit more and you have Cdn dollars!!! Even getting fish and chips at a counter diner would cost 18 pounds?!!
I'm not sure who can afford to shop here but people obviously do. The place was packed even at 7 p.m. - mostly tourists like us although I did see some people who looked like they "belonged"!!! Went to look at the kids' clothes - 495 pounds for a jacket for a 6 month old, 295 pounds for a dress and a "mere" 30 pounds for a tiny pair of infant shoes?!!!
I did find some things - an AMAZING CHILDREN'S BOOK STORE!!!! I can't go completely cold turkey and found two books for school...plus some other things for gifts and souvenirs.
On the ground floor was a very simple and refined memorial to Diana and Dodi - book of remembrance and a statue.
Took a black cab home! COOL!! I sat on the jumper seat and felt truly British!! Time's up and must get some breakfast! BIG day today!! Stay tuned!