Kingston May 29th

It still amazes me that yesterday morning I woke up halfway around the world in Paris, France and last night I crawled into my own bed in Kingston, Ontario Canada!! I left here with snow still on the ground and returned to leafy trees, a green (and freshly mown!) lawn and lilacs in full bloom ringing the property. That certainly eases any sadness I may have as my adventures come to an end! Today it will begin to sink in and I will start pulling out the memories and marvelling at one of the best years of my life!

This will, of course, be the last blog entry. I have so enjoyed having an audience to share my adventures with me. It has given me the opportunity to stop at the end of every day and spend some time reflecting on all that I have seen and done. It's been an incredible journey!

The song "I Hope You Dance" is a favourite and is a mantra I have tried to live this year...and will continue to hang onto in the coming years. I hope you all find the time to "dance" in your lives. It's a great world and a wonderful life!

I Hope You Dance

I hope you never lose your sense of wonder
You get your fill to eat
But always keep that hunger
May you never take one single breath for granted
God forbid love ever leave you empty handed
I hope you still feel small
When you stand by the ocean
Whenever one door closes, I hope one more opens
Promise me you'll give faith a fighting chance
And when you get the choice to sit it out or dance
I hope you dance
I hope you dance
I hope you never fear those mountains in the distance
Never settle for the path of least resistance
Living might mean taking chances
But they're worth taking
Lovin' might be a mistake
But it's worth making
Don't let some hell bent heart
Leave you bitter
When you come close to selling out
Reconsider
Give the heavens above
More than just a passing glance
And when you get the choice to sit it out or dance
I hope you dance

Pardonne...n'oublie pas...

Over the course of the past five weeks, we have visited a number of sites focusing on the Jewish experience and the years leading up to and including World War II. I have always been moved by the accounts of determination and survival against horrendous odds and being in communities where so many of these historic events took place has been overwhelming at times.

Part of our final day in Venice was spent in the Jewish quarter. It was established during medieval times in a particularly undesirable area of the town - near a copper foundry - the "geto".

The space was limited so rather than spread out, the community was forced to "spread up" and the six storey "skyscrapers" still exist today.

In the 1930's there were 12 000 Jews living in Venice. Today there are only about 500. A memorial stands in the square where 200 Jews were rounded up by the Nazis and deported. Only 8 returned.

The plaques spoke volumes.

The names and ages of all 200 deportees are recorded on another wall. Thinking of my nieces and nephews who are the same age as the children listed or seeing women and men the same age as I am puts a human face on this incomprehensible event and makes it even more horrific.

There were five active synagogues in this very small space. We could see three in one block without even having to turn around! Only one is in use today. Jewish law says no one can live above a synagogue so they were built on the top floor of the "skyscrapers".

Behind Notre Dame is a Deportation Memorial dedicated to the 160000 French citizens who were deported by the Nazis and the Vichy government.

This city has seen so much suffering and tragedy in its past and has recorded it in a variety of ways. It was an incredibly moving experience for all of us.

The memorial is below street level and the entrance is a narrow set of stairs that gives an amazing sense of confinement.

At the bottom, there is a glimpse of the Seine through the iron gate and open sky above. A separate room holds the ashes of the unknown deportee as well as ashes and dirt from each of the concentration camps.

But one can't help but be overcome when confronted with the corridor of lights - one for each life lost. 160 000 French citizens were deported and were killed - 11 000 of these were children - and only 3% returned. The visual image is staggering. I was so moved I had to return to the memorial later in the week to take this photo...the first visit was too moving to even think about taking pictures.

Around the city, there are plaques at various sites marking executions, acts of bravery or other sginificant events of this period. A constant reminder and hopefully a deterent - never again.

It is sad that at several of these sites and memorials, we have had to go through strict security measures that we didn't see at other tourist attractions. There were scanners at the synagogue in Vienna and restricted photography and only guided tours at the synagogues in Venice. Our bags were checked at the Deportation Memorial and, again, we were told video taping was forbidden It makes one wonder if any lessons have been learned from all this loss and suffering.

Encore Paris May 26th-27th

We arrived in Paris early Sunday afternoon and had two and a half days (and some sunshine!!) to wander around and see a smattering of the many sights of the city! We walked along the Seine and marvelled at Notre Dame's exterior. The intricate carving and detail on these buildings continues to amaze me!

Inside is a magnificent display of vaulted ceilings and stained glass windows! Hordes of people too with flashes flashing - despite the clearly marked signs forbidding it!! The fact that it is a place of worship makes it even more disturbing to see this request being so blatantly ignored. That and the tourists posing in front of the altar makes me wonder what, if anything, goes through some peoples' minds when they visit such attractions?!!

The tour book warned about pickpockets at many of the tourist attractions - including Notre Dame. While we didn't see any evidence of that, we did see a lot of beggars and scam artists. Several women were wandering the streets of the city. One stopped and asked "Do you speak English?" When we replied, "Yes", she held out a piece of paper with a note about her father in Bosnia and her need for money to bring him to Paris. Others wanted money for food. Mom watched one woman approach a man (this one totally ignored the women...we were onto her!!) and present her "spiel". He was eating on a bench and offered her some of his bread. She took a bit but continued to request money. He finally gave her some money and convinced her to take some more bread. As she walked across the square, she slowly crumbled the bread and dropped it onto the cobbles behind her! It's hard to feel compassionate when you witness something like that! We eventually answered "NO!" when asked if we spoke English!!

At the Musee d'Orsay, a woman dropped a ring in front of Dad. Being the gentleman he is, he stooped to pick it up and return it to her. She was extremely grateful and attempted to give him the ring...then asked for money!

I became so jaded that I tensed up when two young girls approached me later in the week and asked if I spoke English. All they wanted was a photo of themselves in front of Notre Dame but I was expecting a scam!

We did the "hop on, hop off" tour of the city and it was fun seeing the Eiffel Tower, Arc de Triomphe and the Opera through Mom and Dad's eyes! We strolled the Champs Elysees and walked through the Latin Quarter and around the Louvre. So much to see and do and so little time!

And then there were those moments that you just don't see everyday. We were driving by Place de le Concorde when we saw a mass wedding taking place...in the rain! Later, the contingent arrived at the Arc de Triomphe for a photo op. We had our doubts as to how legitimate this event was when we saw some of the outfits!!

But it provided a bright spot in a wet and dreary day!

And across from the Louvre, a movie was being filmed!

Our hotel was just around the corner from the Sorbonne

and we had dinner at a little sidewalk bistro one night beside the main building. Another night I enjoyed escargot, beef bourguignon, creme brulee and chocolat Viennois at a cafe along the Seine. A lunch on the Champs Elysees was another gastronomic highlight! I am going to miss the great food, leisurely pace and relaxed atmosphere I have grown accustomed to here! It is a magical city and I hope to return someday to explore the rest of its treasures and "secrets"!

Musee d'Orsay May 27th

There may be gasps of horror from some art connoisseurs in the audience, but I enjoyed the Musee d'Orsay even more than The Louvre. Maybe it was the fact that we were among the first people through the doors this morning and had time on our own with the exhibits or the fact that the rain held the crowds back for awhile but it was a wonderful several hours and I got lost in the masterpieces surrounding me!

Again, advance tickets saved us from this...and it's only a partial view of the lineup!

I hated to gloat...but organization and planning ahead does have its advantages!

Musee d"Orsay was a former railway station and is the perfect setting for some truly incredible works of art. The massive domed ceiling almost dwarfs the statues and sculptures in the lower gallery!

I have always been drawn to the Impressionists and several floors of d'Orsay is dedicated to them. What a thrill!! The plein-air style(outdoors) deals with my favourite subject matters - flowers, mountains, trees, spectacular landscapes...! My camera has become my way of attempting to capture the beauty I see around me but I have always wished I could do so with paints. These artists have done that with such magnificent results! Renoir, Cezanne, Van Gogh, Monet, Manet...a veritable buffet of art...and we feasted insatiably!

I've done lessons about pointillism at school using books and calendar pages as examples. To be standing in front of Seurats and Signacs and seeing the originals gave me goosebumps! And all I can give you is another picture!

Van Gogh's "Starry Night" from Arles brought back memories of my time there and to see artists' interpretations of places I had visited was surreal!

Monet's colours and light and subject matter are even more vibrant "in person". Mom and Dad have a print of "Water Lilies" in their bedroom so were especially excited to see it.

"Poppies Blooming" was my "I wish I had done that" moment!

Degas' lithe sculptures

and paintings of soft, graceful dancers ...

Toulouse-Lautrec's dancers brought the Moulin Rouge to life!

It was an amazing tour and seeing prints of these works in the future will always evoke memories of this wonderful experience.

The Louvre - May 26th

Today was our visit to the Louvre.  Again, advance tickets had us through security and into the exhibits in a matter of minutes!  The Louvre is one of those places that needs a week long pass (or more!) to fully appreciate the vast collections!  The building alone could take several days to fully digest - such magnificent ceilings and architecture!

 

There were a lot of other people there too (nothing like Tom Hank's experience in "The Da Vinci Code"!!)- school groups, tour groups and ordinary tourists - and it was difficult at times to get to some of the more "famous" pieces...especially when so many people wanted to pose and have their photos taken with these works?!  I have a hard time understanding that.  Why would one try to compete with the works of the masters by putting themselves into a photograph in front of them?  To me, it trivializes these amazing artworks...not to mention that the art piece was often partially obscured in order to get everyone into the photo?!!

Photography is allowed in the gallery but it is clearly marked that no flash photography is to be used.  This was not enforced and there were flashes going off everywhere - with the occasional "no flash!" from the staff monitoring the rooms.  This was disturbing to us.  Again, there didn't seem to be an understanding of the value of these collections and the potential loss of years and years of beauty and brilliance.

But...we were able see the works ourselves and enjoy a few moments of peaceful awe.  To be standing in front of Venus de Milo or to see the brush strokes on a Rubens or imagine Botticelli creating is an indescribable feeling. The salons with the enormous canvases were particularly amazing - making the scene almost lifelike! I can't even comprehend the time and talent it took to complete some of these. It was an incredible day and one that we won't soon forget.  Tomorrow is Musee d'Orsay and more "greatness"!

Milan - May 24th

We have left the Tuscan hills and are back in the land of technology!  It was a wonderful time in Tuscany despite the rain and we were sad to leave. 

I have had some difficulty uploading the blogs I did offline - they seem to be coming up out of order.  This offends my need for order and organization but I suppose it really doesn't matter?!  Those of you who need the order I do can check the dates and click to read them in their proper sequence!

6:40 a.m. train to Paris tomorrow.  Not sure what the Internet situation will be so you may or may not get another update.  I will definitely finish off the blog when we return to Canada on Wednesday?!! 

I can't believe this trip and the year is almost over.  It has been a dream for so long and it will soon be a wonderful memory!!

Florence May 20th

Another rainy day in Tuscany but it takes more than inclement weather to keep us down!!  We drove to Castiglion Fiorentino (15 minutes from our cottage) to catch a train to Florence - about an hour journey. 

Florence was teeming with people and rain!  But, we had our raincoats and umbrellas and were ready to go!  Our first destination was Via Tornabuoni - "THE" shopping street in Florence.  Gucci, Prada, Dior, Cartier and other the top designers make the street their home.  Even with the rain, people were going in and out and obviously spending money!  I kept waiting to be charged just for walking down the street!  Not much can be bought there for less than 100 euros! 

I had booked tickets to Galleria dell' Accademia before I left home and was very glad I had.  There was a long line of people standing in the rain waiting for tickets.  We got into a much shorter line and were inside within minutes!  It does pay to be organized and think ahead!

Despite having seen countless pictures, nothing quite prepares one for seeing The David.  It is displayed in a long room with under a domed roof and is an imposing sight even from a distance!  The aisle leading to David is flanked with other statues by Michaelangelo - some unfinished - giving a real sense of "stone to masterpiece"!

The other floors in the gallery had pre-Renaissance and Renaissance paintings and religious artifacts and triptychs.  Some interesting impressions of Biblical events!

It continued to rain and we continued to walk!  We passed the Duomo but there were other intrepid souls like us lined up to go in so we kept moving.  It is an enormous building and it was hard to get a photograph of the entire structure!  Very elaborate!

Down to the Arno River and Ponte Vecchio.  It is the oldest bridge (1354) in Florence and the only one to escape bombing during the war.  It is lined on both sides with jewellery shops - gold and silver predominantly.  Sorry, no souvenirs from there!!

I could have spent the whole day photographing umbrellas and probably not found the same one twice!  Navigating the streets was even trickier than usual!

I had also booked tickets for the Uffizi Gallery.  This gallery features collections of some of the great Italian painters - Giotto, Rubens, Raphael, Michaelangelo.  There was a room dedicated to Botticelli including his "Birth of Venus".  Leonardo Da Vinci's "Annunciation" (1472-1475) was also on display.  It is a real thrill to be standing in a room with original masterpieces and see the brushstrokes and marvel at the detail and talent.  It is almost overwhelming to walk through room after room of these great works. 

It was a bit of a whirlwind day but we went to see the galleries and left feeling we had accomplished a great deal in such a short space of time!  We caught an early evening train back to Castiglion Fiorentino and got back to our cottage before dark.  The road to the cottage is narrow and winding and nerve wracking to drive in daylight so I was glad to arrive before the sun went down!

Assisi - May 21st

Another gray, overcast and drizzly day but it did improve.  We drove to Assisi (about an hour) and the heavens opened just as we arrived!  We waited out the worst of it then pulled out our trusty umbrellas and made our way up to the town. (No escalators here!)

Assisi dates back to Roman times but it has only been since 1939 when Francis of Assisi became the patron saint of the country that the town has taken on a prosperous life.  The streets are lined with shops and stalls selling every kind of religious artifact and other touristy items.   Restaurants and hotels do a good business too.

The Basillica is an imposing structure on the hill on the edge of the town. 

A large, walled piazza leads to the entrance to the Lower Church. 

The Lower Church was built from 1228-1230 and is a series of dimly lit chapels and vaults.   The walls are covered with the most amazing frescoes done by some of the great pre-Renaissance painters.  The colours are soft and rich and the atmosphere here is serene and meditative.

The Upper Church (1230-1253) and holds almost 30 frescoes by Giotto, Cimabue and other artists of the time.  Again, the vibrant colours and peaceful surroundings made this a most memorable experience.

An earthquake in 1998 damaged many of the frescoes but their former glory is still very evident.  Unfortunately, photos inside the churches were not allowed although I am not sure they would have captured the true magnificence of these works.

 

We went down into the crypt to see the relics of St. Francis.  I was amazed at the power these had over many of the visitors.  Photos were stuck into the vault areas and people seemed overwhelmed to be in the presence of these relics.

St. Francis did lead an incredible life and has certainly left his mark in this community and around the world.

The rain began again but we had seen what we had set out to see so felt ready to head home.  A pretty drive with several lengthy tunnels through the mountains. 

It may have been raining but that just meant some amazing cloud formations!  Mom spotted this one of a man sleeping on his back.  He had been snoring before Dad snapped the shot but I guess his wife must have poked him and his mouth is closed now!

 

Dad counted 83 curves in the road to the cottage in the 5 km trip!  I am more comfortable driving it now but still prefer going down to up!  The poor car works hard to do all the hills and sharp turns and I get a good workout too as I shift gears and grip the steering wheel hoping no one comes around one of those bends!