Saturday, May 3, 2008

Bern May 2nd

No trains to catch or schedules that needed to be kept so a more relaxed day.  We spent the day getting to know Bern.  Mom's ancestors started out here and in the area so it was even more meaningful to walk the streets and see the buildings dating back to the 15th century and think about past generations doing the same!

Our first stop was the Prison Tower.  It was once part of the city wall (1256) but was renovated and used as a prison until 1897.    Bern 010

The streets in the old part of town where we're staying are all cobblestone and it's hard to tell whether they are streets or pedestrian routes!  There is the occasional car or truck and the trams and streetcars patiently wade through the crowds of people that spread from one side to the other!  Drop a fountain in the middle and you have a street in Bern!

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There are 250 fountains in Bern - 11 historical.  Apparently it was something for the craftspeople to do when the Reformation prevented them from creating statues for the Church.  I knew there was no way I would get to them all - but I tried!  The first one I found was right across the street from our hotel. 

View from Hotel Continental

How soothing to fall asleep to the sound of running water!  Each fountain is named (Moses, Musketeers Fountain, Ogre Fountain, Piper's Fountain etc.) Some are quite lavish, almost garish, while others are more sedate.

 Bern3 This is The Ogre.  One legend says he was used to scare children off the city walls!  Lovely!

Bern 080 And then, just down the street, across from the cathedral, is Moses!  Something for everyone!

Naturally, clocks are quite evident here!!  There is a tower in almost every block with a clock or church bell to chime!!  One especially interesting one is the Zytglogge (Clock Tower).

Bern 034 Just before the hour, people gather on the street below to watch the activity.  A jester begins to strike a bell and then a rooster crows.  Two golden men in the tower then strike the bells to signal the hour while the king keeps time with his mace!!  Rick Steves called it a "non event" in his book but I quite enjoyed it!

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Albert Einstein lived in Bern when he wrote some of his most important works and developed his e=mc2 theory.  Bern 037 The apartment is now a museum and it is evident that Einstein is still a resident in the city!

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Bern Cathedral is a 15th century former Catholic church with the tallest spire in Switzerland (currently undergoing restoration).  It  was taken over by the Protestants during the Reformation and is a Protestant church today.  While most of the ornate embellishments and icons were removed, the Last Judgement carvings above the main door remained and are fascinating to look at!  Bern 065 

The carvings and gargoyles on other parts of the building were also fascinating in a grotesque sort of way!  The craftmanship is truly amazing.

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We seem to have a sixth sense when it comes to cathedrals.  Again, as we entered the building, the organ began to play and we were surrounded by the sound!  It certainly added to the first impressions!

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There was a market in one of the Prison Tower square and we had crepes made at one of the stalls Bern 090 and ate them by the fountain there (name unknown!) Bern 091 We shared the space with some smaller friends who stopped by for a drink!

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There was an oversized chess board in the square and games went on throughout the day - always players and observers to be found!

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Italian food seems to be the food of choice in France and here in Switzerland - two or three on every street...just like the fountains!!  We did manage to find a place that did a wonderful cheese fondue with Fribourg cheese and morels - very Swiss!

The other thing we have noticed is the smoking!  When we came out of the restaurant, the air on the street was blue from the smokers at the sidewalk cafes.  Smoking is still allowed in public places and it is not at all unusual to see dogs in restaurants?!  It all takes some getting used to!