It was a slower paced, quieter day. The driving and activity of the past few days caught up with me and it was a treat to have a leisurely morning!!
The Aups market was first on the agenda today. I had stumbled upon a smaller Sunday version when I first arrived in the area and wanted to see what an official market day looked like and to explore the town. On the map, Aups is not far from here but, taking into account the roads, villages to pass through and the average speed of 50-70 km., it is about a 40 minute drive. Getting into 5th gear and going 80 km feels like flying here!!
The market did not disappoint. It covered both the town square and the parking lot and sprawled off down a couple of side streets.
Again, you could find almost anything you wanted there - even mattresses and a few other oddities! Yes, they were alive!
I have finally accepted the fact that, unless one has a helicopter for an aerial view, it is virtually impossible to capture the market in its entirety. I will have to be satisfied with the patchwork pieces that go into making these such interesting and vibrant days!
I have been to markets at home but I still think there is something different about the ones in France. Maybe it's the language rolling around you or maybe it's the sun and those fabulous plane trees but I think it's the sense of community that gives it its flavour. It is a highlight of the week for many who attend - seeing friends, catching up with the stallkeepers as well as carefully selecting the fresh food to be consumed over the coming days.
Today's market had something that completed the festive atmosphere - music!! I was enticed away from the square by the sound of music from one of the side streets. There on a corner was a young man playing the accordian...with his cat on his shoulder!
Farther along the same street two men were providing the entertainment - one an organ grinder and the other singing along. Is there anything more French? (Although I suppose that is like saying Mounties and igloos are what makes Canada?!) I stood and listened to traditional French folk songs and then to "When The Saints Go Marching In"...a solo by the organ grinder!! Something for everyone! I spoke to them and added a couple of euros to their basket for a photo!
The village had its quaint buildings, numerous fountains and clock tower but I exercised great restraint and resisted the temptation to photograph everything that appealed to me!
I bought some honey - lavender and "toutes les fleurs" from a lovely old gentlemen and picked up a small rotisserie chicken and some little roasted potatoes for my dinner. I also had a choice of some shrimp paella or couscous as well as sausages and cheeses from other stalls. Quite satisfying to shop without worrying about grocery carts, checkouts or finding the right aisle...and knowing that any fresher and you would have been picking it yourself!! I'm not sure our strict health codes would allow a lot of what happens here. If church suppers have to follow stingent guidelines, open air markets like this would be completely shut down!
I left Aups and drove up to Tourtour. I had read some things about it and was curious to visit. It is touted as "village dans le ciel" (village in the sky) but at 630 m it isn't the highest village I have visited since my arrival. It is another one of those villages with a stoplight at either end since the "main" street only accomodates one car - and a small one at that! I don't know how some of these trucks I see ever get into some of these villages!!
I had to leave the village proper and climb up to the church in order to see the promised views which continue to take my breath away! The marker was set up like a compass and pointed to each of the communities in the vicinity.
A considerably smaller market was going on in the town square which looked out over the countryside below but the village was, for the most part, quiet and peaceful. I wandered down deserted streets and up to a 12th century chateau. A total change of pace from Cannes, Saint Tropez and even Aups!
There was a Saracen tower up the road so I made my way there and drove down an incredibly rocky, narrow and shrublined path! I had some fleeting concerns about what I'd do if a tire blew or some such thing but those thoughts don't stick around long here!! It was worth the few moments of bumpy road!
It was early afternoon and I was starting to feel "villaged out" so made my way back to the chateau. After a lovely "sandwich" on part of my Saint Tropez baguette, I grabbed my book and soaked up some sun on the chateau lawn (by the tennis courts!!). The lawn was covered with clumps of grape hyacinths and there were birds singing back and forth. The occasional car drove by but it was relaxing and quiet. I spent a couple of hours reading or just staring off into space. How lovely to not be thinking about errands that need running, lessons that need planning, housework that needs doing...!! I now totally understand the French siesta!
Tomorrow I would like to head to The Luberon/Vaucluse area...Peter Mayle country. He is credited for "discovering" the now popular area of Provence east of Avignon and introducing it to the world through his books about his life as an expatriate in the area - "A Year in Provence" (the book is nothing like the movie and a very good read), "Encore Provence", "Toujours Provence" and many more as well as some fictional books set in the area ("Hotel Pastis"). He has since moved to a more remote region! I am looking forward to putting some pictures in my mind to go along with the entertaining stories and vivid descriptions that made me want to visit Provence even more.
