Sunday, April 20, 2008

Arles April 20th

I guess it's a good thing sleeping in doesn't seem to be on my agenda these days a) because an early start means fewer "tourists" out roaming the streets and b) any inclement weather seems to roll in later in the afternoon!

I was out and about bright and early this morning.  I stopped into a little cafe for a fruit pastry and coffee to keep my strength up!  My "stroll" put almost 6 km on my pedometer before 1 p.m.!! I took my map but tended to just turn corners when the spirit moved and discover the city purely by accident!!  Some lovely "accidents" along the way too!!

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I went into the Amphitheatre.  Roman history has not been a favourite of mine since I had to read some awful (in my opinion!) novel in grade 9...so awful I've even blocked out the title!!  But I quite enjoyed touring the amphitheatre!  The age alone (90 AD!!) amazes me and it's not hard to imagine being there for events of years gone by!! It is in the process of being restored (a two year process) and will be even more awe inspiring when complete.  It is still used for events (seating up to 20 000 people!) and there are bullfights there during the summer.  Provencal style bullfights - which are more "civilized" than the Spanish style.  The bulls are merely taunted and tormented rather than being killed!!!

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The stairs are worn by the feet of generations and that sort of thing really appeals to me.  To walk where Romans have walked, where Van Gogh walked...!  I do soak up atmosphere well regardless of the era!

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And, as seems to be another Provencal "style", there were lots of stairs to climb!  I went up to the top of the tower and was rewarded with another view to remember! The Rhone River is off in the distance.

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My meandering took me down along the Rhone and I passed the Roman baths (4th century AD).  I "discovered" some gardens on the other side of the Roman theatre - bursting with colour but not people! A lovely, peaceful stroll marvelling at the fullness of the flowerbeds.  Wonder if mine need weeding yet?!  I do miss my daffodils.

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For a community that was not terribly understanding or supportive of Van Gogh while he lived here, they sure are making up for it now!  Postcards, coasters, posters, Tshirts...even the least "cultured" person can't help but recognize some of his more famous pieces of art after a visit here!!

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I wound my way back to Place de la Republique and just as I was approaching Saint Trophime Cathedral,

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the church bells started to peal!  Like last weekend, I wasn't worshipping indoors anywhere but  I certainly felt at peace!!  Unfortunately my camera doesn't capture the sounds that go along with the images and this was something I wanted to hang on to.  So...I called my answering machine in Kingston!  It was just 6 a.m. (and Sunday morning too) in Ontario so waking family wasn't even an option!  But, for $1.99 (cost of the phone call!), I captured 1 min. and 7 seconds of this very magical moment!!  They pealed again at noon and then at one!!

The church was closed for services but I went next door to visit the cloisters and galleries (12th and 14th century Romanesque and Gothic).  Fabulous architecture and all done by hand?! 

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One gallery had some gorgeous tapestries from the same period

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and there was a beautiful stained glass window.

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I returned to the hotel midafternoon for a bit of a break and headed out again later.  It's great being so central to everything and I felt a bit sorry for any drivers I saw trying to navigate the narrow and, from the looks on some of their faces, unfamiliar streets!  MUCH easier on foot!!

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It had been overcast and quite blustery for the early part of the day but the weather had changed dramatically by the time I was ready to go again!!  The wind was howling and it was a struggle to walk.  It had started to rain and my umbrella was threatening to turn inside out and drag me off to unknown lands!!!  I grabbed some takeout dinner in a little cafe and came back to the hotel for a quiet and cozy night!  Then it poured!  Hopefully that means sunshine and blue skies for tomorrow!!  Places to go and things to do!!!