Wednesday, April 23, 2008

Nimes April 22nd

I spent the morning looking at bus and train schedules for the remaining days here and took a noon train to Nimes.  Despite what the tour books say, travel between these villages and towns is not quite as frequent or simple and straight forward as you are led to believe!!  One does need to be organized and do some planning ahead.  Fortunately, that is my strong suit but it has been a challenge ensuring that I can do all that I want!!

The countryside was so typically Provencal - from the tall, slender Cyprus trees to the poppies along the tracks and vineyards on the sloping hills.  I felt as if I had stepped right into one of the many travel books I have been reading for the past couple of years!!

Nimes train station is right at the edge of the old city so my first point of business was to find the tourist information office and get a map.  The arrow pointed straight ahead so I walked straight ahead!  After walking several blocks down a wide, tree lined avenue, Nimes 018 I came to a beautiful fountain in the middle of a square (Esplanade Charles de Gaulle, I think...seems to be a common name in all these places!!).  There had been some ominous clouds on the train trip but they had cleared and the sun was shining and it was quite warm.  Nimes 006 People were gathered in the square soaking up the sun or enjoying some quiet time before heading back to work or other duties(although you won't likely see any of them in MY photos!!).  But still no tourist office!! 

Farther along was the amphitheatre.  With my limited knowledge and interest in Roman architecture, I didn't see much difference from the one I'd toured in Arles.  The information I had said it was built at the end of the first century AD and is one of the best preserved amphitheatres of the day.  There was evidence of some restoration going on there too.  HUGE lineups and since I'd already been inside the one in Arles, I opted not to visit this one.

Nimes 008

I was sure I'd missed the tourist office so walked BACK down the lovely tree lined avenue to the train station to double check.  I had the right directions - just hadn't walked far enough obviously.  Retraced my steps again and entered the older section of the town.  The narrow streets with little boutiques and restaurants and crowds and crowds of people!!  I actually followed one tour group knowing that if they didn't lead me to the tourist office, I would at least see some of the sights if I stuck with them!!!  Sure enough, I got both!!  We passed the Musee Caree.  Another 1st century AD building, it is the only fully-preserved temple of the ancient world.  It too was getting some sandblasting and TLC (on the back)!Nimes 028

Finally, there on a little side street was the tourist office!

It too was very busy but a lovely woman waited on me and helped me get a map and some information about visiting Pont du Gard and Avignon of Friday.  I had had a couple of not so nice experiences with people in the tourist industry in Arles earlier in the morning - just unpleasant attitudes and no real desire to be helpful - so I was very grateful for this gracious woman's assistance...despite the demanding crowd around her!!  She obviously attended the social skills classes the two from Arles missed!!!

Map in hand, I pointed myself in the direction of a place the woman had recommended - Jardins de la Fontaine.  I love how, despite the modernization and volume of traffic, these towns have kept their "times gone by" roots.  Another tree lined street along a canal and, except for the cars, it could have been the 19th century!! Nimes 029

Farther along was a park and several groups of old men playing boules!  I stopped and watched for a bit.  I especially liked the gizmo some of them had for collecting their boules at the end of a round.  They had a long string tied around their waists with a magnet on the end and would simply dangle the string and the magnet picked up the boules!  No exertion or bending required!! Nimes 030

Jardins de la Fontaine was well worth the walk and the day was the ideal backdrop to the spectacle!  An 18th century garden in true French style - full of white marble statues and vases and fountains and a splash of colour from the flowers and trees in blossom.  Nimes 039

 

Nimes 043

And, there were stairs to climb and the promise of views!!  How could I resist!!

Nimes 044

At the top of the climb was Magne Tower - another Roman construction.  The top level has since deteriorated but the octagonal shape was unusual.

Nimes 047 I didn't climb the tower (I don't PAY to climb things!!) but was still rewarded with some lovely views of the gardens and the city.

Nimes 046

Nimes 054

Also on the grounds was the Temple of Diana.  Interestingly enough, there is little known about it.  An interesting structure all the same.

Nimes 041

Discovering new places is always fun - it's the getting back to where you came from part that is less enjoyable!!  My feet were hurting (wore the cute "girlie" shoes instead of the sensible walking shoes!!)so I aimed back into town and through more little back streets and alleys.

Nimes 062

I had time before my train so stopped at one of the sidewalk cafes just up from the station for some dinner.  Again, this is where the French outdo themselves!! The other night I was craving a good old burger and fries so ordered steack hache frites.  I'd seen a sign for McDonald's but one just doesn't do that in France...does one?!!

And it was a smart move.  No burger and fries here but a fabulous soft and crusty baguette stuffed with ground beef (not even the word hamburger will suffice!) and topped with golden, crispy fries!  Pure heaven!!

Arles 035

Today I went with poulet frites and was presented with an even larger baguette full of chicken breast and fries!!  After a day of walking (17 km at final count!), it really hit the spot!

As per usual, I was back at the station with time to spare only to discover that the train was going to be an hour late!  I had put my book into my backpack though and was quite happy to sit and read until it was time to board.  At which time, I was again settled and reading when the conductor came by.  It seems that there had been a change of trains and tracks!!  I must have missed the announcement because the car was empty!! 

I was tired but the later train meant lovely light over the countryside - perfect for photos except that, with a crowded train, I was stuck on a jumper seat by the door.  So...I guess I'll have to rely on my memory for those shots!!